Adafruit

US$17.42
This button has a domed blue plastic cover with a black retaining ring around it. There's an optional LED included that will light up the button. The LED has a built in resistor so you can run it up to 12V but given the massive size and shallow depth of the button, it doesn't illuminate the entire button face evenly.
Delivery within 2-3 weeks
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US$9.49
This resistive touch screen can be used with a stylus or fingertip and is easy to use with a microcontroller. You can put it over a paper overlay for a touch control panel or attach it to an LCD to DIY a touch-activated display.
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US$8.67
They are fairly bright so they can be seen in daytime, and from any angle. They go easily into a breadboard and will add that extra zing to your project.
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US$17.42
The body is made from a single piece of aluminum and has nice knurled grips. The end-cap rotates so you can keep the body steady while rotating. The tip is nicely machined and is magnetic so it holds the miniscule screws in place while inserting/removing them.
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US$43.67
This pi plate is perfect for when you want to build a stand-alone project with its own user interface. The 4 directional buttons plus select button allows basic control without having to attach a bulky computer. The plate is designed for both Revision 1 and Revision 2 Raspberry Pi's. It uses the I2C (SDA/SCL) pins. We have a special xtra-tall 26-pin header so the plate sits above the USB and Ethernet jacks.
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US$17.42
This PCB fits neatly on top of a Beagle Bone, without getting in the way of the Ethernet jack, and provides a breakout to both 46 pin headers - with individual numbering to keep them straight.
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US$6.13
This cable will let you swap out the stock 150mm long flex cable from a Raspberry Pi Camera (either 'classic' or 'NoIR' type) for a different size.
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US$8.67
Each pack contains ten 6" pieces of the following sizes: 3/32", 1/8", and 3/16".  You get three of each in black and red, and one of each in green, blue, white, and yellow.  It's a nice colorful mixed bag of heat shrink!
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US$17.42

This product comes with: 2 x Ultra-Bright Red Alphanumeric Display - 0.54" Digit Height for 4 digits total. 1 x Adafruit 14-segment LED Alphanumeric Backpack. 1 x 5-pin header.

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US$3.85
The pins are normally open (disconnected) and when the button is pressed they are momentarily closed. They come in a pack of 20, they're pretty handy so you'll want to keep them around.
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US$13.92
Digits have seven white segments on a black surface and we give you a set of two alphanumeric displays in a pack so you can make a clock or a four letter word.
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US$7.88
There are 16 pins on the side, 8 on each, with 0.1" spacing so you can easily plug it into a breadboard with one row on each side for wiring it up.
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US$23.03
This lovely little display breakout is the best way to add a small, colorful and bright display to any project. Since the display uses 4-wire SPI to communicate and has its own pixel-addressable frame buffer, it can be used with every kind of microcontroller. Even a very small one with low memory and few pins available! The 1.44" display has 128x128 color pixels. Unlike the low cost "Nokia 6110" and similar LCD displays, which are CSTN type and thus have poor color and slow refresh, this display is a true TFT! The TFT driver (ST7735R) can display full 16-bit color using our library code. The breakout has the TFT display soldered on (it uses a delicate flex-circuit connector) as well as a ultra-low-dropout 3.3V regulator and a 3/5V level shifter so you can use it with 3.3V or 5V power and logic. We also had a little space so we placed a microSD card holder so you can easily load full color bitmaps from a FAT16/FAT32 formatted microSD card.
Delivery within 2-3 weeks
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US$5.17
This microswitch has a 3" long wire lever actuator and three terminals. Sometimes called 'coin switches' - they're used in coin detectors. The terminals are along the bottom (the other microswitches have them on the sides).
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US$5.17
Go 'cold splice' with these snap-able plastic splices for fast connections. Use with any 22-26 AWG solid core wire and slip them into the plastic splice so that they slide into the metal teeth. Then squeeze down with parallel-jaw or slip joint pliers - don't use needle-noses, they have too much angle and not enough force.
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